1990 VW Corrado G60 Engine Replacement With Original Part

vwjunky · Newbie Joined: Dec 22, 2006 Posts: 4

Hey All:

I need to replace an engine with an identical replacement.

I own a 1990 VW Corrado G60. I blew out the head bearings, but instead of spending money on that, I decided to replace the engine with an identical replacement with much less miles on it.

I need to know if there is a documentation out there somewhere that guides you through the engine replacement process.

I've been a home mechanic for over 15 years, and I am the original owner of the car.

All I need is an engine lifter, and I think I can get it done, but I would appreciate some sort of documentation from some place.

Please advise.

warren · Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:44 pm Post subject:

ENGINE
Removal (Except Fox)
1. Disconnect and remove battery. Open fuel tank fill cap and radiator cap. Remove intake air duct. On 16-
valve engines, remove intake manifold assembly. On vehicles with A/C, remove trim panel and lower
apron. Remove condenser from crossmember and radiator. Remove all duct work. Mark and disconnect
A/C and cooling fan electrical connectors. Remove accessory belts.
2. On Golf, GTI, Jetta and Passat, leave A/C hoses attached and remove A/C compressor. Pivot A/C
condenser and compressor to side of vehicle and secure.
3. On Corrado, remove G-Charger compressor. On Cabriolet and Corrado, remove alternator and timing belt
cover. Remove 3 A/C bracket Allen head bolts behind timing belt cover. Remove A/C bracket support
brace. Remove A/C compressor bracket bolts. Leave hoses attached and secure A/C compressor with
bracket out of way.
4. On all models, open heater controls. Remove cooling hose from thermostat housing flange and drain
coolant. Remove thermostat housing flange. Mark and remove all cooling system hoses.
5. On Golf, GTI, Jetta and Passat, remove grille from radiator support. Disconnect electrical connectors at
radiator support. Remove radiator-to-support bolts. Remove radiator support using care not damage
headlights. Remove radiator, fan and shroud assembly.
6. On all models, remove axle shafts from transaxle.
Section. Mark and disconnect shift linkage and speedometer cable. Mark and remove electrical
connectors and vacuum hoses. Disconnect throttle, cruise and kickdown cables. On Golf, Jetta GLi and
Passat, leave fuel lines connected and remove cold start injector and warm-up regulator.
7. On all models, remove fuel injectors. Remove rear engine mount. Remove complete transaxle mount. On
Cabriolet and Corrado, remove right front tire assembly. Remove right and left engine mount through
bolts.
8. On all models, install engine sling on engine lift hooks. Carefully raise engine and transaxle out of
vehicle. Separate transaxle from engine.
Installation
1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Engine alignment adjustment is necessary whenever engine is
removed or mounts are loosened. To adjust, loosen through bolt on engine mount "A". Loosen
transmission transaxle mount "B" bolts. Loosen front engine mount and bracket.
1990 Volkswagen Corrado
1990-91 ENGINES 1.8L 8-Valve & 2.0L 16-Valve 4-Cylinder2. Lightly rock engine and transaxle to allow position to shift as necessary. Evenly tighten mount bolts in
reverse order of loosening. Fill fluids to proper level. Adjust clutch pedal (if equipped). Tighten all bolts
and nuts to proper specification. Make sure you mark everthing it makes it less painfull when trying to a reassembly make notes if you have to. Good Luck Smile

vwjunky · Newbie Joined: Dec 22, 2006 Posts: 4

Warren,

How can I thank you for this? I am still visualizing the engine swap in my mind, as I read through the factory manual. I have several questions, if you don't mind.

First, when you mention lifting the engine along with the "transaxle," you mean the transmission, correct? I just wanted to clarify this part of it. When it comes to "technical" terms, I need to confirm it.

Second, I already have the replacement engine ready to go, so the engine swap is definitely happening in the future, but can you advise me on the possible sources of the problem with my engine?

Someone hammered in my oil cooler from the top, on both sides--the markings were "indented" into the oil cooler--this is why the O-ring broke, and I lost all my oil while I was on the highway, for about 5 minutes.

Looking at the factory manual, it could be the camshaft bearings, which I checked, sanded down, and reinstalled; and I know that it is the piston rod bearings, which I am considering in changing, as a temporary fix (total parts $50 bucks, and I know how to replace them), but I am worried about the main bearings installed on the crankshaft.

I know that you have to look and listen to the engine before figuring out the problem, but a lot of noise is coming from below the valve cover and from the bottom of the engine. Something is definitely loose.

Can you point out the possibilities of the problems with my engine?

Finally, I want to thank you once again for the advice you provided.

Sincerely,

VWJUNKY
20 years (I actually counted the years) home mechanic junky.

warren · Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:49 pm Post subject:

Hi there,
if you drove for five minutes without oil in the engine. You probably damaged the crankshaft and bearings, probably mains and rod bearings. I'm surprised the engine didn't throw a rod bearing the metal from the bearings has now been pumped throughout the engine via oil galleries, putting new bearings on a damaged crank is pretty much a waste of money. You will not be able to trust the car to go anywhere without fear of breaking down. When you do replace your engine, make sure that you flush the oil cooler and lines so that you get all the old metal filings from the damaged engine out of them, because the last thing you want to do is introduce metal filings from your old engine to your new one. I wish there was something I could say, that would make the job a little easier. Or put off till a later time, but by the sounds of it your all engine is toast good luck to you Smile

warren · Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:55 pm Post subject:

vw junky,
The transaxle is the transmission and differential rolled into one Smile

vwjunky · Newbie Joined: Dec 22, 2006 Posts: 4

Warren:

I am opening up the engine tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.

As far as the replacement engine, it comes complete, with the oil cooler. Nothing from the old engine will be installed onto the new one, except for some of the cooling hoses.

I was definitely worried about the main bearings on the crank. The engine rattles loudly when the transmission disengages.

I'll keep you posted on this project.

Again, thank you.

VWJunky

vwjunky · Newbie Joined: Dec 22, 2006 Posts: 4

Hey Warren:

I took a look under the engine. I dropped the oil pan, took out the oil pump, and there they were: the crankshaft, the piston rods, and etc.

I took the liberty of replacing the piston rod bearings, wiped the oil pan clean of all the metal flakes, changed the oil filter, and changed the oil.

It seems to me, Warren, that someone, before the o-ring cracked--because this someone hammered the oil cooler from both sides--so much so the hammered parts were "indented"--had removed the bottom bearing on the #1 piston rod, and the top bearing was flattened to 1 and 1/2 width of the original and worn to a crisp, and thing of it was that the engine was knocking from the #1 side before the o-ring break-down--it was knocking for years--there was no way that the #1 top bearing could have flattened to such a state over 5 minutes of driving without oil, if you know what I mean. #2 piston bearings were worn to its copper core--the top bearing was melted-stuck to the top. #3 and #4 bearings were fine.

The engine sounds brand new. There is absolute silence to the engine after the bearing changes, and all my neighbors are in "SHOCK." There is no noise from the head, no noise from the valve, no noise from the valve lifters, no noise from the camshaft, nothing.

I didn't even change the rod connecting bolts, because the changes weren't necessary.

You know I love you for the advice you provided, and the engine swap is right around the corner, but...

I could swear to you that the main crankshaft bearings, including the thrust bearings, were accessible from the bottom--can this be done?

Can I also change the main crankshaft bearings from the bottom?

The crankshaft itself looked brand new by the way.

Please let me know. Thanks a bunch Warren.

VWJunky

warren · Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 9:26 am Post subject:

Hi there,
I had no idea that you were going to try this. The bearings toward the front of the engine starved for oil first. That is why they are worse than the last if the bearings are into shape that you explained. I don't think I would take this engine for a long drive. As you may break down the clearances and the finish of the bearings and crank are measured in one thousandths of an inch. For instance, Rod bearings for that engine minimum clearance is 1.5 thousandths of an inch, which is measured with plastic gauge. That is considered to be a good fit on a crankshaft is absolutely no marks on it and perfectly round checked with a micrometer so how long this will last is anyone's guess. I have seen this type of procedure done in the past, but usually by someone that is trying to unload a car, and it usually doesn't last long anyway good luck to you. Smile

warren · Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 9:37 am Post subject:

Hi There,
I forgot to answer your question about main bearings. Yes, you can replace them from the bottom removed, the base pan. You can look up and see the main bearing caps, what you can do in most instances is loosened all the main bearings. So the crankshaft will drop a few thousandths of an inch take each Off and then push the upper half of the shell out and push a new one in and then put your bottom cap On loosely do the same with each one then torque all your main bearing caps as a proper torque. Did you say that there is no marks on the crankshaft whatsoever? And there is no discoloration anywhere? Anyway good luck to you Smile


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